Amo Roma! (Great Bookends to 40)
As our time here in Ireland quickly dwindles, so do our chances for cheap and fast travel around Europe. It is just so easy to get from Dublin to most places within Europe within a matter of a few hours. And with the advent of cheap-o airlines, it almost seems silly not to. So, John and I booked a weekend away in Rome. We stayed at the St. Regis again, because honestly……it’s awesome. We usually get upgraded at Starwood properties and they did not let us down this time. We got a beautiful suite that was actually nicer and bigger than the one we had last year when we went there for my 40th. We only had two nights and mostly the plan was to just hang out, drink great wine, eat great food, and generally be great together. But we did have two items on our must-do list: 1) eat at Ristorante Pietro Valentini and 2) Go check out the Vatican. Now, if you are ever in Rome (and I hope all of you are at least once in your life!) you have got to go eat at this place. It is small, family run, and seriously, crazily delicious. The couple that runs it is so sweet, they even send out Christmas cards to their past customers. She runs the front and he is the chef. Her sister also waits tables. I want you to go because it is the kind of place you want someone to recommend to you…..off the tourist track, local, personal, amazing. And I want you to go because the owner told us how bad things had been the past six months or so. She is hoping that the summer season, with all its tourists, will pick things up. But she doesn’t know. Anyway, they are known for their truffles that they grate over your pasta (and other dishes If you so wish) with crazy abandon. It makes you forget yourself for a moment. But even if you don’t like truffle (like John), the food is to die for. I am particularly fond of their fried zucchini flowers and John swears their caprese salad is one of the best he has had. Since he eats 2 per day whenever we are in Italy, I think he has a good base for comparison.
Here is where I had planned to put a picture of our zucchini flowers and caprese.
But we ate it too fast. So here is a picture of our empty plates. But I did calm down after that and here is a picture of our mains: pasta with truffles for me and prawn risotto for John.
On Saturday, I had booked a tour of the Vatican. I figured this was the way to go for fast entry (I was right) and for the best info on all the Vatican holds (sort of right). The tour met right on time, was small in group, and whisked us right in. And the guide was very knowledgeable. But he seemed a little tired. Like, not physically, but tired of giving this same tour twice a day for several years. But that didn’t dampened how amazing the sites in the Vatican are. That being said, it got a little overwhelming. So, my recommended approach would be the same I use for the Louvre. You can’t see it all. It’ll take years. Literally. So, do some recon and pick out 4-5 main things or areas you really, really want to see. You can see more the next time you are there. Right? (Power of intention…..you WILL be back!).
Half way through, John decided to bow out of the tour as we had walked several hours that morning and his hip was getting the better of him. Plus he wanted to go sit in the sun and drink wine. He slipped away. I stayed with the tour for a few more sections, including Raphael (AWES-MAZING!) But then I too decided to quietly slip away from the tour. I waited until we got into a really crowded room and then I vanished. I had mentioned to the guide that John had left, so I hoped that he would just assume that I had gone to check on him. No such luck. About 20 minutes later (and only 5 minutes into me drinking wine and sitting in the sun with John) I got a text from the tour. They wanted to make sure we were okay, or as John said, to make sure we weren’t unhappy and going to post a bad review. I assured them that no, we were fine and just had to leave because “John has war injuries and the walking was too much”. While this is technically true, it just sounded hilariously serious and crazy in text. It made us giggle. Next, we took a walk around the whole perimeter of the Vatican, having gone the wrong way out of the museum, to get to St. Peter’s square. The tv cameras were all already set up and ready for the conclave to pick the next pope to start in a few days. It was an interesting time to be in Rome: Pope retired, a presidential election that elected no one and the current President just prosecuted for fraud (Berlusconi). But the Italians seem to just get on with it.
We decided to walk back across the river to a wine bar that I saw on the walk down: Sangalio ai Coronari. We got a seat outside in the warm early spring afternoon, a bottle of wine, and chilled. There was a beautiful sky. Life is good.
That night was ate dinner at a very touristy, but friendly place in front of the Pantheon. While the food is okay by Rome standards (which means pretty great by other standards) you can’t beat the view of the Pantheon or the active vibe.
Sunday dawned a bit rainy, but glorious by Dublin standards, so we headed out. We did some clothes shopping, as one does in Italy! Then we wandered over to Trastevere. It little windy streets and funky shops are charming. It was fun to browse and then share a bottle of wine at an outdoor café and people watch. The corner we were of definitely saw some characters, including one guy who looked like he’d gotten lost from the 80’s, possibly from the hairband “Nelson”! I’m just sorry I didn’t get a picture of him.
All in all, it was another amazing visit to Rome and an amazing time to be there. The Italians just get on with it and don’t let the uncertainty of life impede their enjoyment of it. Bunga Bunga! I am sure we will be back to Rome….truly the Eternal City.